An oven that crawls toward 350, a front burner that sparks and never catches, an F-code the day after power was restored.
Weekdays 8–6 · Saturday 9–3 · closed Sunday · truck based on 4425 Harbor Country Dr NW
$99 to meter it, one figure on the ticket, coverage printed on the invoice — identical for every machine in Gig Harbor.

Gig Harbor's kitchens sort roughly by when the house went up. The 1970s ranches on Point Fosdick and along Wollochet Bay still tend to cook on electric coils or an early glass-top. The netshed-row houses on Harborview Dr have been gutted two or three times and now hold a Wolf or Thermador gas range where a coil stove once sat, fed by a PSE line pulled in during the last remodel. Canterwood, Harbor Hill and the newer streets north of Borgen Blvd went to induction cooktops over wall ovens. Around Uptown and Olympic Dr the apartments run whatever glass-top the landlord bought by the dozen. None of it sits far from our door on Harbor Country Dr.
Inside the city the gas is natural, so a yellow, sooting flame here is most often a fouled burner or a cap knocked off center rather than the propane mismatch we chase on Fox Island. Past the city limits toward Rosedale and along Artondale Dr, though, a good many Gig Harbor addresses cook from a propane tank, and a range that left the store set for natural gas misbehaves from its first meal. Then there is the wind. When a November storm takes the power down across the peninsula and it returns with a surge, the oven's control board is a frequent casualty, and the F-code on the display the next morning is a call we take every winter.
A self-clean latch that failed to retract, a lock motor stalled partway, or a door gasket crushed flat so the kitchen heats instead of the oven. We back the latch off, meter the lock motor and its switch, and replace a gasket that has stopped sealing the door to the frame.
A radiant glass-top loses an element or the surface switch that drives it; an induction cooktop loses a coil, its power board or the small fan cooling its electronics. We meter element and switch on a radiant top, board and fan on induction, and price the single part that failed, nothing more.
On a gas oven the glow bar still glows, but its current has fallen below the point where the safety valve will open. An electric oven, meanwhile, is usually down to a broken bake element or to one dead relay on its board. We read amperage through the igniter or resistance across the element and change the part that reads wrong.
The board is reporting something: a sensor drifting out of range, a door lock stalled, a keypad with a stuck key, or its own failure after a surge. We note the code, clear it and make it return, then meter the sensor and lock. Only when those pass does the board itself get named.
On a propane tank outside the mains, this is a range still fitted with natural-gas orifices, or its regulator never flipped to propane. On PSE gas it is a plugged burner port or an air shutter closed too far. We identify the fuel, install propane orifices, switch the regulator over and tune each burner to a blue flame that holds low.
A spark electrode crusted with boil-over, a fractured ceramic, a spark module that got wet during a deep clean, or a cap set off-center so the flame cannot bridge. We dry and scrub the electrode and its lead, center the cap, test the module's output and replace the electrode or module only when it reads bad.
Fuel comes first. Is this kitchen on the PSE main or a propane tank, and is the regulator set for what it is getting; or, on an electric unit, do both legs of 240 volts arrive at the terminal block. After that the meter does the talking: current through the glow bar, resistance across bake and broil elements, the oven sensor's cold resistance, and continuity through the lock. We light every burner and look at the flame. Any code on the display is cleared and provoked into returning. Well inside the hour the failed part has a plain name and a single figure on paper, and if that part is aboard, the repair follows at once.
Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, Frigidaire, LG, Bosch and KitchenAid make up most of the ranges in town, with Dacor, Viking, Wolf and Thermador in the Harborview Dr remodels and the larger Canterwood kitchens. We are independent of all of them and say so plainly; when a Wolf or Thermador appears still covered by the manufacturer, you hear it from us before a number is written. A summer-house owner receives a photo, gives approval by text, and finds the invoice with its warranty in the inbox afterward. Money has one rule here: diagnosis costs $99, approve the repair and its written figure has already absorbed that $99, refuse it and $99 settles the visit. Every price arrives after the diagnosis and in writing.
Yes. Ranges on the Artondale and Rosedale edges of Gig Harbor often arrived set for natural gas and were never converted. We install the propane orifices, switch the regulator and trim the air shutters until every burner burns blue and stays lit on its lowest setting.
Not automatically. The identical code appears when a sensor or door lock fails and the board merely reports it, so we meter both before condemning the board. When the board really did take the surge we tell you and write one figure; when a sensor is the cause the repair is smaller and finished sooner.
Both, and they are the standard layout in Harbor Hill, Canterwood and the Harborview Dr remodels, often a Wolf or Thermador cooktop above a Bosch or KitchenAid oven. A cooktop that has gone dark and an oven that has gone slow are nearly always two unrelated faults, and each gets its own diagnosis and its own written figure.
It can be repaired. The failure is a coil, the power board or the cooling fan, and each is replaceable; the board is the largest job of the three. We test before pricing so you know which of the three it is, and the figure goes on paper before anything is decided.
The diagnosis is $99 and you owe it either way. Approve the repair, and the figure on paper already has that $99 within it; nothing is stacked on top. We do not name a figure before the range has been metered; the figure is written once the diagnosis is done, and a written warranty rides on the invoice.
Phone or form, either way a dispatcher sends a two-hour window and a text the moment the truck rolls — from Harbor Country Drive, or off the bridge deck for Tacoma stops.
Clamp meter, thermometer, manometer where propane is involved. The failed component is identified and explained, and one figure goes on paper with the $99 built into it.
The truck carries what salt air, iron water and outages break: fill valves, defrost heaters, igniters, rollers, relays. Anything ordered comes back on our schedule, not your bill.
A complete run of the machine while you watch, the floor and panels put back as found, and the warranty term printed on the invoice.
$99 gets the meter on it, the figure goes on the ticket, the part is usually already on board, and the coverage term is printed on the invoice. Same card on both shores of the Narrows.