A Miele dishwasher in Harbor Hill stopping with F11, a W1 washer in an Uptown townhome closet refusing to fill, or a T1 dryer in Canterwood running three hours.
Weekdays 8–6 · Saturday 9–3 · closed Sunday · truck based on 4425 Harbor Country Dr NW
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair$99 diagnostic · one figure, written
Washer Repair$99 diagnostic · one figure, written
Dryer Repair$99 diagnostic · one figure, written
Dishwasher Repair$99 diagnostic · one figure, written
Oven, Range & Cooktop Repair$99 diagnostic · one figure, written
Ice Maker Repair$99 diagnostic · one figure, written
Gig Harbor buys Miele in two places. The townhomes and apartments around Uptown and Olympic Dr, where a W1 washer and T1 heat-pump dryer stack in a hall closet because the dryer needs no vent, and the larger houses of Harbor Hill, Canterwood and Crescent Valley, where a G-series dishwasher hides behind a cabinet panel and an H-series oven sits in the wall. A few Point Fosdick kitchens still run the older G 2000 dishwashers and W3000 washers, and they keep going. Uptown sits around the corner from the shop on Harbor Country Dr and Borgen Blvd is not far past it, which is why a Gig Harbor Miele call lands within the week and frequently the day after you phone.
Gig Harbor city water is drawn from wells and is moderately hard, and Miele dishwashers care about that more than most. A model with a built-in softener wants its salt reservoir filled and its hardness setting matched to the water, or the glasses cloud and the heater crusts; a model without one leans on rinse aid and a regular descale. Townhome laundry closets bring their own trouble: long drain hoses, a T1 whose plinth filter has never been opened, a W1 whose supply taps were half closed at move-in. On the waterfront the salt air greens connectors, and a winter PSE outage around Canterwood can leave a W1 with an electronics fault to read.
| Unit | Typical sign | Likely cause | Our fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| G-series dishwashers in Harbor Hill | Stops mid-cycle, drain light, water in the tub | Glass shard or seed in the drain pump, non-return valve stuck | Open the pump chamber, remove the debris, test the valve and pump, run a drain program to confirm |
| Dishwashers on city water | White film on glasses, crust on the heater | Salt reservoir empty or hardness set too low for the water | Test the water, fill the reservoir, set the hardness level, descale the tub, rerun a program |
| W1 washers in Uptown townhomes | Slow fill, then an intake fault on the display | Supply tap part closed, inlet screen blocked, flow meter reading low | Open the taps, clean the screens, meter the inlet valves, read the flow meter, retest a fill |
| T1 heat-pump dryers in closets | Three-hour cycles, clothes still damp | Plinth filter and condenser fins matted, humidity sensor coated | Clean the whole air path, wash the filters, test the sensor bars, check loop temperatures |
| W3000 washers in older kitchens | Drum will not spin, motor hums | Carbon brushes worn down, tacho sensor faulty | Measure the brushes, meter the tacho, fit new brushes or sensor, spin-test a full load |
| H-series ovens in Canterwood | Door stays locked, error on the display | Door lock motor or switch, sensor drifting after an outage | Cycle the lock, meter its switch, compare the sensor to a probe, replace the failed part, retest |
| Code / indicator | What it means | Our fix |
|---|---|---|
| F11 | Drain fault: the water did not leave in the expected time | Open the drain pump chamber for debris, test the non-return valve, check the hose run |
| F13 | Intake fault: the machine filled too slowly or not at all | Check the taps in the closet first, clean the screens, meter the inlet valves and flow meter |
| F24 | Heater relay fault: the control saw trouble in the heating circuit | Meter the heater and the relay on the power module, test the pressure switch, replace what fails |
| F53 | Speed sensor fault: motor speed did not match the command | Test the tacho and the motor windings, check the plug, replace the sensor or motor as measured |
| F70 | Float switch tripped: water has collected in the base | Trace the leak to a hose, seal or the pump, dry the base pan, replace the leaking part |
A Miele keeps a record of itself, and in Gig Harbor we read it before touching a screw. The fault memory, hours run and program history say whether a dishwasher has been struggling to drain for months or a washer tripped once in the last outage. Then the meter: drain pump windings, inlet valve coils, heater resistance, tacho output, door lock contacts, and on a T1 the temperatures across the condenser. Drain pumps, inlet valves, door locks, brushes and filters ride on the truck. A power module or heater assembly is ordered by serial number, and the return to Uptown or Harbor Hill is short, with no second trip fee.
Narrows Appliance Pro is an independent Gig Harbor shop and not a Miele dealer. We hold no title from the maker, we do not sell or install the machines, and we say so plainly. A W1 and T1 pair in a new Uptown townhome may still be under the maker’s own coverage, and we tell you before the diagnostic if that looks likely. For St. Anthony Hospital staff we keep first-thing and end-of-day slots open Monday to Saturday. When the owner of a Harborview Dr house is away, we send a photo, the go-ahead arrives as a text message, and the emailed invoice carries the warranty term. Once you approve, the $99 is absorbed into that single figure; should you prefer to stop at the diagnosis, $99 settles the visit. Numbers get written down after the meter has spoken, never before.
If your model has a salt reservoir, yes. Gig Harbor water is moderately hard, and the built-in softener needs salt and the right hardness setting to keep glasses clear and the heater clean. We test the water at the visit, set the level and show you where the reservoir is. Models without a reservoir rely on rinse aid and a periodic descale.
Yes. Stacked pairs in hall closets are common in the Uptown and Olympic Dr townhomes, and the shop on Harbor Country Dr is close. We bring the tools to unstack safely if needed, clear the long drain hose runs, check the supply taps and put the pair back level and tight. Most closet faults close in one visit.
F11 is a drain fault: the pump could not move the water out in time. Most often we find broken glass or a seed lodged in the drain pump, a non-return valve that has stuck, or a filter nobody has cleaned in a long while. We open the pump chamber, clear it, test the pump and give you a written price before replacing anything.
Heat-pump dryers move heat through a small condenser, and when the plinth filter and fins are matted with lint the cycle stretches out and the clothes stay damp. A humidity sensor coated in residue stretches it further. We clean the whole air path, test the sensor bars and check the loop temperatures before anyone talks about the compressor.
No. We are an independent repair shop that fixes Miele dishwashers, washers, dryers and ovens for the people who own them, and we claim no title from the maker. If your machine looks new enough to be inside the maker’s own coverage, we say so before the diagnostic and let you decide how to proceed.
Phone or form, either way a dispatcher sends a two-hour window and a text the moment the truck rolls — from Harbor Country Drive, or off the bridge deck for Tacoma stops.
Clamp meter, thermometer, manometer where propane is involved. The failed component is identified and explained, and one figure goes on paper with the $99 built into it.
The truck carries what salt air, iron water and outages break: fill valves, defrost heaters, igniters, rollers, relays. Anything ordered comes back on our schedule, not your bill.
A complete run of the machine while you watch, the floor and panels put back as found, and the warranty term printed on the invoice.
$99 gets the meter on it, the figure goes on the ticket, the part is usually already on board, and the coverage term is printed on the invoice. Same card on both shores of the Narrows.